When I traveled to Bali the first time, I had no idea what to expect. My bestie, and trusted travel companion, seemed to have thrown a dart at the wall and decided that it was a good place to go. 27 hours and 2 layovers later, we were in Denpasar on our way to a little village (Mengwi) to stay in a pirate cabin (or was it a “private” cabin) in the middle of a rice field.
Can I tell you that waking up surrounded by green grass all around me while the were chirping, and eating fresh fruit and drinking fresh kopi bali was the most relaxed I have ever felt in my life? But I digress.
The food was fresh and creative. Things I've never tried before mixed together for what I like to call a "party in your mouth." I think that a lot of it had to do with the surroundings and charming smiling people around. We drove to Ubud, town in the center of the island, know for yoga, hippies, culture and art. Unlike Mengwi, which is a tiny rice village, Ubud has offices, shops, restaurants, and an abundance of tourists walking around wearing colorful cotton rompers (something I didn’t see a single local wear, but I’m not judging, I bought at least 5 for myself and my friends back home).
One of my favorite meals was the at Bebek Bengil – or The Dirty Duck - praised for their (you guessed it) duck. The best of all was their version of “sambal.” Living in the States, I’m used to one version of sambal, the red chili saucy stuff that comes in a plastic jar with the green lid. This sambal was something else. Super aromatic, full of flavor, and I think it might have even been better than the duck itself. We requested an extra large side of it as we were working on our dinner. And even asked for the recipe. Of course, like all things in South Asian cooking the trick is in the ratios which I still haven’t gotten right. But if you want to try to recreate it, it includes fried shallots, fried ginger, finely chopped chilies, salt, pepper, sesame oil, probably palm sugar, and some kefir lime leaves (I think). My other favorite meal was the Babi Guling (whole roasted pork) served multiple ways and served with rice, a soup, or simply with some sambal (yep that same spicy stuff) and some a side for fresh vegetables.
Other than eating, Bali has one of the most laid-back cultures of any country I have ever visited. Costa Rica's "pura vida" mantra is a close 2nd. Maybe because its an island and everyone is on “island time,” maybe it’s because the Hindu religion is passive, or maybe because most of this tropical paradise is green and lush and surrounded by picturesque beaches on all sides. I don’t know, but I do think that the color green has something to do with it. One of our day trips we drove just north of Ubud to the Jatiluwih Rice fields. The drive up is long and windy road that even the best of us can get a little ikk from. However, once you open the car door, and see the terraces of this UNESCO site, you come to realize that it was all worth it. We happened to be there before the harvest season in late September, which means that everything was lush and growing – if we were to go there even a month later we would have likely missed it in all of its glory. Later, when I went back to Bali, and having seen as much as I have seen, I still go back to Jatiluwih for the love of the color.
One cannot got to Bali without talking about all of the gorgeous Hindu temples. I’ve looked at many sites about where the most beautiful temples are, but ultimately trusted our driver to decide for us. And I think we made the right decision. Or I should say Made made the right decision for us. (Made is the name of the 2nd child in Bali.) My most favorite temple actually also requires a lot of stairs, and on the way in is ok (which is down) but on the way out … it’s a beast! But all special things in life you must work for, I believe. So don’t be discouraged by it (unless you absolutely cannot). It has waterfalls, thousand(s) year old mountain carved relics and if you’re there around full moon, a festive combination of flowers and tapestry.
Made also made a great decision when showing us around Bali on another day (or was it the same day?) when he took us to visit his friends “bar.” His friend’s bar, is actually the back of his auto shop where he also sells gasoline in water bottles on the side of the road – which is very common in Bali. When you walk through the dim shop / garage to the back, there is one table in the back in the shade. And his friend was sinning on the floor next to some tires. When we walked in a man with a huge smile and a few teeth sprung up and brought us some water bottles filled with something that looks like fuel. And fuel it was, but not for a vehicle. It was a drink called arak or raki… or both? This nectar is collected from the sap in the palm trees and fermented into booze, kinda like moonshine, to be enjoyed at home by anyone who wants to grow some chest hair or have their voice lowered a few octaves. Good thing I brought water with me, because it’s the kind of place that doesn’t offer chasers or mixers. And on the brighter side, the alcohol % was mellow enough to still have a great day. Or an even greater day!
In short, this was the trip that solidified by desire to always talk to strangers when traveling. Ask for advice. And make friends with absolutely everybody. Buy lunch for your driver. Tip your manager, cleaning service and staff. Smile big (and with covid, do your best) at everyone. I will always think Bali is my special place. And it’s where I think I want to retire. But now that I’ve started following my own advice, I feel this way about, Costa Rica and Portugal, and a few other places. What's a girl to do?
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